One of the unique features of Arunachal is that it is possible to get from steamy plains rain forests to above-tree-line alpine forests, all in one forest stretch and without a break of vegetation. The forests here are unique as are the leaches, which launch their attacks from various levels near the ground as well as by dropping off from the tree canopies when human beings pass underneath!
On the way to Ziro, we came across quite a few forest fires, some started naturally while most were started deliberately to clear the forests for farming. Close to Ziro are the temperate forests of Pange in the Talle Valley Sanctuary, at around 7, 000 ft. above sea level. The brave can walk up the rough road that leads into the sanctuary, and even take permission to spend a few nights there. Don’t expect typically hot and humid conditions here, for you’re gaining altitude as you progress into the park, and with that the heat gives way to cold and the steamy forests give way to misty swards and glens, and the landscape gets transformed. This is hornbill and Clouded leopard country at its best, but you would have to work very hard indeed to sight anything, for Arunachal’s forests are so thick that you have to leave most wildlife sightings to the imagination!
Carry warm clothing if you’re venturing out in the spring of autumn season, and a sleeping bag would be a must. Carry drinking water, leach guard (repellent or kerosene!) and dry rations for the trip…
The womenfolk of Ziro wear cane blocks in their noses and tattoo their noses and chins, in an effort to make themselves look unattractive. This was done in the past to discourage the neighbouring tribes from kidnapping the Apatani women who were actually considered to be quite beautiful. This system is not as common now as the law and order situation has improved tremendously and women are clearly not being kidnapped anymore! But traditions remain, and one will still find middle-aged women with cane blocks in their noses or else beards etched onto their chins!
One of my finest memories are of ambling through the village and coming across a large wooden platform, known locally as a Labrang, with an old man sitting atop it, chanting an Apatani rain sacrifice. The Labrang is the village platform on which all rituals take place and where the matters of the village are sorted out and all disputes settled. The man is chanting before a bamboo pole to which are tethered several upside-down fll-grown chickens and small chicks. After the chanting, the chickens are taken around the entire village on the pole, and shortly after they are sacrificed. Then their entrails are read to forecast the weather conditions for the rest of the year. The man’s chanting still haunts me for its simple yet tuneful character…
Continuing down the streets and passageways of Ziro, I came across a ceremony that was taking place inside a hut. This turned out to be the continuation of a wedding ceremony years after the wedding had actually taken place and the couple has even had a few children by this time. For the Apatanis, marriage is not just a ceremony that takes place over a period of a few days. In this ceremony, the brother of the bride hosts a lunch for her in-laws and gives gifts to her entire family. The feast consists of rice and pork and the locally made rice beer or Apong.
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